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GEORGIE’S REVIEW: LOEWE SS21

Fri 2 Oct 17:14 pm

The reference of craft is something that JW Anderson has been exploring for the past few seasons, honing in on techniques and stylings that celebrate the hand of the artist or maker. This season, as with menswear, the womenswear collection was presented via a ‘Show-on-the-Wall’. A set of life-sized looks, paintbrush and papers that invited those who received it, to experiment and create. The beauty of the final piece in the hands of the spectator.

Within that set was wallpaper designed by British artist Anthea Hamilton’s ‘Sr Jeanne Wavy Boots w. Gazanias and Snails’, whose exhibition at the Tate had been a major influence for Anderson. Her pink striped piece was used as a focus fabrication for the collection as well as a starting point for various other artists on social media to toy with. A rather clever social-seeding strategy that works in tandem with this collection’s themes of handcraft and traditional technique.

There were explicit homages throughout the collection too; contrast stitching, adjustable tie-front dresses, structured bodice and sheer skirt. Hamilton’s ‘Squash’ appeared as gargantuan leg of mutton sleeves or puff-ball skirt and again in the poses that Anderson’s 2D models assumed. In the time of a pandemic, we want something that feels homemade, that hands have touched, something tangible, an art piece, a labour of love. This collection answered all those calls and more.